The Grass Rhizome

"The Japanese beetle is here to stay. Therefore, we must learn to "live with" or manage this insect pest while attempting to minimize its impacts." -United States Department of Agriculture

News of the Japanese beetle invasion has been wide spread. Almost every neighborhood in athe mid-west has seen some type of damage from these ravenous invaders leaving behind the skeletal remains of your favorite shrub, tree, or vegetable in the garden.

Both as adults and as grubs, Japanese beetles are destructive plant pests. Adults feed on plant foliage, mate and lay eggs in mid summer. The carnage continues when the next generation hatch in late summer. Japanese beetle larvae along with their many white grub cousins feed on turf grass roots from August through October. If you ever thought the Japanese beetles were devastating to your garden, wait till their grubs attack your turf.

Grubs are the larval stage of several large beetles – June Bugs, May beetle, Masked Chafer and their iridescent cousin, the Japanese beetle. Young grubs feed on turf grass roots and will kill large sections in a short amount of time.

The first line of defense in preventing turf damage is to apply Grass Pad Long Lasting Grub Controlto your lawn, in mid-June to July. GPLLGC, when applied and watered in thoroughly will be absorbed and attaches to the grass roots. As grubs feed, GPLLGC is ingested and stops grubs from feeding.

Grub damage in the lawn occurs from August through October. Identification of grub damage can be tricky, as it happens when drought or disease may also stress the lawn. The best way to check for grub damage is to grab a handful of the affected turf and gently tug. The grass will peel back like a carpet, exposing the grubs that have eaten the roots.

If grub damage is found, apply Grass Pad Quick Kill for grubs as soon as possible. GPQK, when applied as directed, will kill grubs and stop further damage in 24 hours. Sunlight can degrade the fast acting components of GPQK and should be watered in immediately after application using 1/2 to 1 inch of water. Adequate watering is necessary for GPLLGC and GPQK to penetrate the thatch layer and get deep into the soil.

Repairing grub damage is simple. Repairs can begin immediately with spot seeding and an application of Loveland Lawn Renovatorturf food along with an aggressive watering regime to help reduce the amount of damage that has occurred. Fall over-seeding at the heaviest rate will be necessary to complete the repair process.

See Related: Fall Lawn Renovation

Salt damage! Heavy snows are often blamed for winter kill to lawn grasses and garden plants. Salt damage from caustic ice melter can be the real culprit. Where snow piles up around patios and driveways salt based, residues are concentrated by repeated use. These heavy salt concentrations will damage turf grass and a variety of landscape plantings. Wherever the snow has been repeatedly thrown up on the curb by city snowplow trucks, a border of dead grass will appear. All grass varieties can be affected. Some like buffalo grass are particularly sensitive while, perennial rye and tall fescue are slighty more salt tolerant.

Salt ice melters applied in late winter, and early spring are likely to damage vegetation. This is because there is less time for winter snow and precipitation to leach salt from the root zone before growth resumes in the spring. Reduce the side effects from salt damage. Apply Grass Pad's pelletized Lawn CAL before the ground freezes in November and again in early spring. The calcium in Lawn CAL displaces salt residues which helps to reduce the uptake of damaging salts through the plants root zone. For best results, use pelletized Lawn CAL in your lawn spreader making two passes (full open rate) around street curbs, driveways, sidewalks or wherever ice melter will be repeatedly used in winter.

Calcium is one of the most misunderstood nutrients. Calcium plays a major role in plant physiology by strengthening the physical structure of the plant and helping with disease resistance. Grass Pad's Lawn CAL is all natural and safe for kids and pets.

Lawn repair! Lawn edges around sidewalks and driveways have also been damaged by snow removal equipment. Chunks of grass have been stripped up by snow blades and shovels. Tire tracks have plowed up turf areas once hidden under the snow. Here turf grass sod is the quick and easy fix and will repair the damage in an afternoon.

Grass seed first aid can also be used for patching and repair. Buy the seed first so you know it will match your existing lawn. Fine bladed grass seed mixes likeEstate Mix, Stadium Special or Macho Mix will sprout and blend well. Coarse bladed field grasses like annual rye or K-31 should be avoided no matter how appealing the picture on the bag.

PrimeraFC, field dressing, makes an excellent weed free top dressing for these spring seeding repairs. It helps keep the seed in place and speeds germination as well as drying up muddy areas around the patio or dog run. It has been used for many years on outdoor sports fields and is an inexpensive problem solver for home lawns as well.

Brown mud mush? In early spring, at the Grass Pad, we receive plenty of phone calls on lawns turned to brown mush by dogs and children running on waterlogged backyard soils. Big German Shepherds and energetic ten-year-olds seem to do the most damage. In these situations, the first aid fix is the same one used on sports fields that must be played in wet, cool weather.

First, applyPrimeraFC field dressing to help stabilize the muddy bare areas.
Second, seed with a fast starting, salt tolerant perennial rye in Grass Pad grass seed mixes like Stadium Special, Estate Mix or Macho Mix.
Third, follow Uncle's guide to spring seeding for tips on fertilization and crabgrass prevention.

It's been a dry winter and lawns are toasty brown. Grass blades have been frozen by winter temperatures and burned by winter sun. These old dried blades do not recover. In time they will be replaced by fresh green growth sprouting from the crowns and root system of the existing grass plant.

Every Spring Mother Nature gives plant life a chance to start over. The winter season has been a long time out. It's the first weekend in March and now there is a chance to begin anew. Gardener’s and home owners can't make Spring come one day sooner, but they can be prepared for an early start.

Uncle's Early Spring tips:

First, mow the lawn short: Lower your mower deck one or two notches. Being careful not to scalp your lawn. Pick up the grass clippings and remove any winter trash. This low mow will cut off the brown winter grass blades and open up the soil to the warm spring sunlight.
Second, give the lawn a booster shot of spring fertilizer. Golf Course Starter or Loveland Renovator formula will start the rejuvenation process four weeks early and help lawns thicken and fill in ahead of summer weeds and hot weather.
Third, over seed any bare spots larger than a salad plate with fresh clean lawn seed and top dress with PrimeraFC top dressing or sphagnum peat. Avoid seed blends that contain coarse bladed annual rye grass or ugly field fescue; and do not use top soil to top dress weed free Grass Pad grass seed. Top soil will contain coarse weed and sedge seed.
Fourth, water when you are able. Winter has had below average moisture. Surface conditions are extremely dry for turf. Water deep once or twice per week till normal spring rains arrive.

See Related: Tips on Spring Over Seeding

Spring thawing and frost heaves open up cracks in the soil that let in air and moisture. These cracks make March an ideal time to apply seed, fertilizer, lawn calcium and lime. Shady areas have been hit hard this winter and are ideal for mixes like Macho Mix or Estate Mix, If you have a house or rental property that needs a make over in the front yard look for a sports field rye blend like Stadium Special. This is real first aid for distressed real estate or a play area where kids and dogs have torn up the play field. Both fescue and bluegrass lawns may be over seeded now. But don't fiddle; new grass plants need an early start to be ready for hot weather.

Uncle's Rant:My Irish Uncle taught me a thing or two about thrift. He said keep your money in the mattress and always buy grass seed by the pound. READ THE LABEL! some seed bags are now only half full with grass seed, the rest is magic dust from the Leprechauns and Fairies. Uncle says this is like pouring water in the whiskey jug and calling it “Jack Daniels.” Homeowners should read the analysis label and only pay for the real grass seed. Recommended coverage is often so much blarney. Mother Nature puts the magic in the grass seed, the inert matter is just expensive dust.

See Related: When to apply PREVENT for crabgrass.

Hostas Emerging

EnglishGarden hosta lilies are as close to “idiot proof” as a plant can get. These tufted leafy plants are grown for both their distinctive foliage and seasonal flowers. Their foliage will vary from deep green to bright yellow, as well as dozens of variegated combinations in between. Their leaves may be large, small, radial or oval. Their flowers form in spikes or clusters at the end of a central stalk that rises out of the foliage in July.

Classic hostas may be used in key positions in the garden where fine foliage effects can be appreciated. They do well in containers or as border plantings for sidewalk patio or foundations. They are often used as a frame for setting off summer annuals. Hostas do well planted at the base of shade trees, bird baths or statuary. In new homes, hostas are a low maintenance plant to help fill up endless rows of empty mulch beds.

Bare Root Hosta

But don’t be deceived. Once established hosta lilies are tough customers. They may be used in large beds, on slopes and low maintenance areas. They are outstanding when used on drainage ways to hold rock and flagstone in place. If a leaf is damaged simply cut if off and another will grow back.

Most hosta varieties prefer partial shade and moist soil in summer. Newer varieties will tolerate more sun. If you are planting a sunny spot check the Grass Pad labels to confirm your choice. An “Idiot proof” hosta planting kit include Landscapers Max Mix. Max Mix should be worked into the top six to eight inches of the soil. Follow with Uncle's Root Accelerator once at planting and again at thirty day intervals.

Patriot Hosta

At Mid summer, potted hosta plants will cost as much as fifteen dollars. But right now hostas are available as bare root stock. These bare root plants are easy to establish and represent a real value. The Grass Pad has a terrific selection of old standards as well as new exotics. In either case the first time novice or the experienced gardener will save money. Uncle says load up now. Get your EnglishGardenHostas on the Cheap.

Mow Reasons to Mow Better

Did you know that mowing your lawn not only makes it look great, it also becomes thicker and is more resistant to weeds, disease, and unwanted pests?

All lawns are not the same. Different grasses require different mowing requirements. Cut the grass too short it can become stressed and less dense. Left too tall during the rainy season, can lead to turf disease.

What is the proper cutting height? Cool season grasses such as Heat Wave, MachoMix, Estate Mixand Blue Wavemowing height range between 2.5 to 4 inches. In early spring, mowing low, and not scalping, makes the grass dense. A dense turf will fight weed pressure. Also in spring, taller grass holds more dew and allows turf disease like brown patch to develop.

In summer, mowing taller conserves water and cools the grass roots. When temperatures reach into the 90’s, and it hasn’t rained for a week, start raising the mower back up and by July have it all the way to the top. In late August, when you begin to over seed, mow lower and keep it at that height all fall and next spring.

How often should you mow? Having a routine mowing schedule for your lawn is common. However; you should only mow your lawn when it needs mowing. Grass will grow at different rates depending fertilization, season and weather conditions. In the spring, with longer days, cold temperatures and plenty of rain, grass grows quicker than in the summer with high temperatures and less rainfall.

Regardless of the grass species you have, you should not remove more than one-third of the grass height when mowing. This is important because the grass is a living plant and regardless of the species, they all undergo some stress when cut.

Keep your mower blade sharpened! A cleaner cutting blade results in less stress on the turf. A dull mower blade rips and shreds the grass leaf making the plant susceptible to disease.

Avoid mowing your lawn when it is wet. There are several reasons for not mowing your grass when it’s wet. In addition to possibly jamming the mower blades and clogging the discharge chute, it also leaves clumps of grass on the lawn. Grass collecting on the mower blades also results in tearing the grass much like a dull blade. Keeping your lawn mower blades sharp can’t be overstated.

One of the most interesting habits of some hydrangeas is the ability of the flowers to change color. This is not true of all hydrangeas, but most often seen in the mophead and lacecap cultivars of hydrangea macrophylla.

This color change is due to the soil pH. Those with blue or pink flowers tend to be blue in acid soil conditions and pink in alkaline conditions. To get the best flower color, choose cultivars that give the best colors for the pH in question. White flowers will remain white regardless of soil pH.

Hydrangea with blue flowers can be kept blue by growing the plants in acidic soil, or by acidifying soils. In soils where hydrangeas are not reliably blue add aluminum sulfate. If the soil is very alkaline, this treatment may not work but can be very effective for container-grown plants. Use rainwater to water hydrangeas, since hard water can affect the flower color, turning blue flowers pink. Boost red or pink flowers, by applying granular lime in winter.

Hydrangeas flower from mid to late summer. Not all hydrangea are the same, different types have different ﬂowering habits. Panicle and smooth hydrangeas ﬂower, such as the white Annabelle and Incrediball® along with the pink Invincibelle-Spirit® bloom on new wood growth. Oakleaf hydrangeas, such as Snow Queen and Alice, ﬂower on old wood growth.

Re-blooming hydrangeas are types that have the unique ability to ﬂower on both old and new wood. Even if the buds are damaged by winter weather, the plant can still ﬂower on wood it produces that season. Re-blooming hydrangea varieties include the Let’s Dance®, City Line®, and Endless Summer series. These mophead and lacecap varieties, such as Twist and Shout®hydrangeas will bloom with little attention, but regular pruning encourages new growth, that can produce a better display.

Hydrangeas thrive in a moist, but well-drained soil, in a cool, shady part of the garden. Avoid planting in dry, sunny spots and exposed areas, where cold winds may damage young spring growth.

Add Uncle’s Max Mix, landscapers mix, into the soil before planting to add plenty of organic matter and after planting use Black Magic peat compost as mulch.

Fertilizer hydrangeas with Uncle’s Root Accelerator, low nitrogen plant starter, at planting. Avoid feeding too often, with high nitrogen fertilizers which can encourage excessive leaf growth, with plants less likely to develop flower buds and more at risk from winter damage.

Fragrant lilacs, valued for their appearance, are the most popular of spring flowering shrubs. The common lilac and its many cultivars come in a variety of colors; purple, white, pink, blue, and dark red are all favorites here at the Grass Pad.

The vigorous growth habit of the lilacs makes it ideal for tall screen plantings, hedges, borders, and in mass plantings for their tremendous display of flowers. Few shrubs can rival lilacs for bloom even under difficult Kansas City conditions. They are used as accent or specimen plants at the corners or along houses and buildings. Most famous of the lilacs is the Dwarf Korean lilac which rarely grows larger than 4 feet. This plant makes an attractive hedge with its fragrant, purple-lilac flowers.

New reblooming varieties have been popular in the last few years. Bloomerang® Dark Purple lilacs bloom twice. Dark Purple is bigger than the original Bloomerang® and has larger more rounded bloom clusters. They bloom in spring like most lilacs, then reblooming in mid-summer through fall. Scent and Sensibility® has a lower and compact growing habit with pink flowers.

Old fashion purple and white lilacs along with the elegant colors of the French hybrid lilacs bring a majestic pallet of colors and height to any garden or structure.

Hardy in cold climates, a lilac requires full sun to flower well. Lilacs are easily grown and do well in either acid or alkaline soil but respond with improved growth to applications of lime every three or four years where soils are acid. Lilacs are known to have good deer resistance.

Prune a lilac right after it flowers in the spring. Pruning consists of removing old flower clusters and thinning out the oldest branches at ground level to encourage new growth from the base of the plant. The most vigorous new shoots should be left to take the place of the older stems which will eventually be cut out.

Renew an older overgrown lilac by cutting the whole plant down to within six inches of the ground. It’s a drastic means of rejuvenation. But, don’t worry, the plant will survive. The best way to treat old plants is to prune out one-third of the older stems each year for three consecutive years. In this way, the plant can maintain a reasonable height in the landscape and still flower from the remaining wood. By the time of the last pruning, replacement wood should be durable enough to support the plant and promote flowering.

This is Uncle Nature’s favorite time of year! Taxes are done, robins are singing, and it’s time to paint up the landscape. A flat of annual flowers costs less than a gallon of paint and will give you bright colors all summer long.

Got Sun? Angelonia, Bronze Leaf Begonia, Celosia, Dusty Miller, Salvia, Marigold, Petunia, Lantana, Vinca and Zinnias all love lots of sun. New varieties of Sun Coleus with large fancy leaves and beautiful contrasting colors are excellent for garden beds or containers. In sunny and dry spots in your garden add Uncle’s Max Mix to the soil to help maintain moisture.

Got Shade? No problem. Alyssum, Green Leaf Begonia, Coleus, Impatiens, Lobelia, Pansy, and Snapdragons all will thrive in shade. In shady areas, make sure the soil will not waterlog in wet weather. Raise the soil surface by amending with one third Max Mix for season-long results.

Spikes of violet angelonia bordering a bed of yellow zinnia. The use of complimentary colors is a real eye catcher.

If there is one big mistake gardeners make first time out, it’s skimping on the width of their beds. Make your flower beds wide enough to add flowering shrubs, ornamental grass or even small flowering trees. Wider beds at least five to six feet wide are more attractive and give you more planting opportunities for that lush, layered look you’re after

A bed of red sun coleus blending orange zinnias to yellow African Marigolds. Ornamental grass makes an outstanding perennial backdrop for feature gardens.

Uncle’s Tip: The closer together, the better they look! Have you ever admired the beautiful annual beds created by professional landscapers around commercial properties? You too can have those same results. Annuals planted too far apart take all season to grow together in the bed. Plants 4” to 6” apart fill in quickly and will make you a hero.

Yellow lantana, orange zinnia and red sun coleus are a triad of complimenting colors. Shenandoah red switch grass makes an excellent backdrop.

Help them to grow, amend the soil with Max Mix, get those roots going with Uncle’s Root Acceleratorand use Pine Bark mulch. Idiot Proof gardeners that are both lazy and smart keep the weeds out of their mulch beds with Grass Pad Garden Weed Preventer for the special magic, use Uncle’s all season slow-release garden fertilizer. Make a family event of it! Annuals are inexpensive, easy, and fun. Get to the Grass Pad Flower Market and make it happen. Bring your dimensions, and our Green Team will help you fill it up.

Click this Link to Download Planting Quantity Chart

Emerald Ash Borer

The past few years the two most talked about insects have been the Japanese beetle and emerald ash borer. If you act now, this could be the year you get out ahead of these plundering pests and control aphids, scale and sawfly larvae at the same time.

Dominion Tree & Shrub insecticide for Emerald Ash Borer & Japanese Beetle control.

Protect trees and shrubs before the beetles emerge by using a soil drench application of Dominion Tree & Shrub insecticide. A direct soil application of Dominion Tree and Shrub provides systemic insect control with up to twelve-month residual. Systemic controls are absorbed by the plant and are held within the plant tissue. When the borer or beetle chew the plant, they poison themselves.

Japanese Beetle

Start early and apply Dominion Tree & Shrub before Mother’s Day. Be careful to read and follow all label directions.

Japanese beetles on Knock Out Rose

Protect trees and shrubs after the Japanese beetles emerge. Apply Cyonara to the leaves every week to fight off beetles.

Japanese beetles from traps.

Uncle’s tip: Do Not Use Traps! Traps will attract beetles from long distances, bringing them into your yard, where they may not have naturally found their way. Protect your lawn from Japanese beetle grub damage this fall with a July application of Long Lasting Grub Control.

Warm weather brings annoying pests like ants, fleas, ticks, and chiggers. This year the summer bug invasion will be quicker than Putin into Crimea. Just like the Russians, the threat of economic sanctions will not prevent or remove these menacing marauders from invading your lawn and ruin your picnic.

Know thy enemies

There are two kinds of insects waiting to march into your lawn. One chew on you and your pets, the other prefers to eat on your grass, shrubs and trees. The first category includes ants, fleas, ticks, chiggers and mosquitoes that bite or suck blood from warm blooded mammals including you and your pets. Besides being uncomfortable, these bug bites can spread infections like Lyme disease and Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever. They can also ruin a picnic or patio party for you and your children.

Related: How to Remove a Tick

An army travels on its stomach

The second category of lawn insects is those that chew or suck on your grass, trees and shrubs instead of your legs. It’s easy to know when you have chiggers because they bite your leg. However, the unseen enemy is always the most fearsome. When sod webworms, pill bugs, crickets, grass hoppers and chinch bugs attack your lawn, it is much harder to see. Homeowners may not discover the damage until their lawn turns brown. Don’t wait until these hidden invaders have taken over your property. Draw your red line, now! De-escalate their potential for damage and restore a pest-free sanctuary in your yard. Apply Critter Gitters now!

Related:Bagworm Control on Junipers

Look for signs

The buildup of troops around your borders will begin as the bugs hatch. The first signs can be seen on the windshield of your car; another is the screen door of your patio or deck. Once you start cleaning bugs off your windshield and swatting brown June bugs, it is time to call out the rapid response team to defend your lawn from the impending invasion.

Choose your weapon

Liquid Critter Gitters such as Bifen or Cyonara are perfect for getting into those hard to reach areas, but they also should be watered in after twenty-four hours. When spraying, make sure to spray dog kennels, tall grass, bushes, low hanging tree branches and the foundation of the house. Liquid insecticides will give good general control of nuisance pests, as well as, mosquitoes. Spray in the early morning or late evening when wind drift is at a minimum.

Diverse Tactics

If liquid controls are not doable, apply granular Critter Gitter insecticides, using a broadcast spreader, Critter Gitter granules will control surface feeding insects as well as those in the crown of the grass plant. Insects continue to hatch in your lawn throughout the summer. Some good news is both categories of insects are controlled using liquid or granule Critter Gitters or in combination. Apply in late afternoon and water for thirty minutes after application.

Timing is crucial

The first application is the most important. Wait for warm temperatures to ensure the first hatch is well underway. Bugs that hatch early in the summer will continue to multiply until September. An effective control May or June can interrupt this process and significantly reduce problems later and for complete season long control an application once a month may be necessary.

Never surrender

A wise man once said, "If you are confused about what to do, it is a sign that your enemy is winning." Come on down to your nearest Grass Pad Battle Command Headquarters. Our staff can help you with an effective battle plan to defend your turf and garden.

Spring rains make a mess of outdoor schedules. Planting the garden, seeding the lawn, sprucing up the patio, all get rained out, just like a spring baseball game at Kauffman Stadium. Wet mucky soils are hard to dig and form hard pan clods during planting. Major projects are delayed and routine chores are a mess.

Gardeners, homeowners and event planners can all take a tip from the baseball grounds keeper. Baseball infields are meant to be dry. Slippery footing is dangerous and the infield must be raked smooth. Baseball is an elegant game. It is not meant to be played in the mud.

Save the Game
On sports fields, the secret weapon in the battle against mud and rain outs is PrimeraFC field conditioner. The fine porous chips of PrimeraFC are used by professional baseball teams for infields and are tilled into the soil of grassed areas as well. Sports fields prepared with these porous ceramics will absorb moisture and be ready to play when other fields are closed for days.

On football and soccer fields, wet bare spots develop at midfield and around the goal lines. In such wear areas these field conditioners will reduce soil compaction, promote drainage and encourage root development. Parents and coaches trying to upgrade a tired public field or save a rain threatened game schedule can use the same versatile products.

Save the Picnic
Overnight rain can disrupt more than just a baseball game. In the spring, picnics, graduation parties, wedding receptions all move outdoors. Even after the rain stops, muddy ground can put a damper on these events. To get rid of muddy spots and dry out walking paths, spread the PrimeraFC over soggy ground. It will absorb moisture, dry out the soil and give guests a clean firm footing to walk on. Best of all when the party is over just broom it into the turf with a leaf rake and you are done. It is a benefit to the grass, soil and any garden plant.

Save the Carpet
When used with new seeding, PrimeraFC will hold moisture and speed seed germination by seven to ten days. Unlike garden topsoil, the ceramic medium is weed free and will not contaminate new seed with soil born weeds. My favorite use is on high traffic play areas round the dog run, yard or patio. It provides a clean firm footing and will reduce muddy foot prints onto indoor carpet. On public lawns and muddy courtyards it reduces lawn wear and tracking into polished indoor surfaces. Moms and janitors come to love this stuff rain or no rain.

Save the Garden
Healthy roots for flowers and plants need a balance of air and water. In wet compacted soils plant roots drowned and rot from too much moisture. Water logged planting beds, large containers and low spots in the garden will all benefit from these same athletic field products. Porous well drained soil is the name of the game, whether at Kauffman Stadium or your own back yard.

Uncle says that the bottled water at the gas station is more expensive than the gasoline. We but water tanks, water filters, water jugs and water piks. We get our water boiled, distilled, chlorinated, oxidized and brewed. Home, health, and industry depend on clean water. But we overlook Mother Nature’s most important water filter. We even walk all over it.

Thousands of billions of grass plants protect our earth and filter our groundwater. In an average 10,000 square foot lawn, there are 8 million individual grass plants. These tightly growing grass leaves are responsible for the photosynthesis that makes the grass plant grow, and in the process, they exchange the carbon dioxide in the atmosphere for clean, pure oxygen.

Also, the tightly knit grass carpet traps urban air pollutants so that they are not recycled into the atmosphere. The worst of these include ozone, hydrogen fluoride, sulfur dioxide and peroxyacetyl nitrate. They are all absorbed, recycled, and made harmless by transformation of turfgrass. Science has no filter as efficient as grass.

Below ground grassroots are even more impressive. A single grass plant can generate millions of individual roots that weave miles of individual fibers. Multiplied by 8 million plants, this forms a massive underground filter which traps and digests atmospheric pollutants.

This root mass is home to billions of microorganisms which work together to build up the humus and soil fertility and reduce carbon dioxide. This complex organic system transforms lawn fertilizers and herbicides into healthy plants and good organic matter. It is grass that filters our groundwater and regenerates the deep black soils so prized by gardeners. The thick black soils of the world are found in our prairies, not in our rain forests.

See Related: Healthy Lawn Contributes to Cleaner Water

The rain that falls on the streets and parking lots of our cities quickly runs off to rivers and streams. This runoff is not filtered by urban lawns but carries with it vehicle and industrial residue. In the United States, there are some 40 million acres of turfgrass. Each acre captures an average of 600,000 gallons of groundwater recharge every year. In modern urban design, if we want more clean water, we need more healthy green grass.

The Emperors of China and Rome, the Mayans, and the Aztecs, the ancient Persians, the Kings of England and France, all valued turfgrass in the design of their cities and palaces. Some modern architects and urban planners have forgotten these ancient lessons. Today there is a misguided notion that cities need more concrete and less grass. They need a little more science. They also need to talk to more eight-year-olds. When its time to play ball, everyone would rather play on grass.

Today’s lawn problem needs attention today. Waiting for August merely is not acceptable. Killing dandelions and henbit today will leave bare areas for crabgrass to move in this summer and when the crabgrass dies this winter, the dandelions and henbit move back in for the spring. It’s a vicious cycle, and the only thing that will stop the cycle is to keep grass growing in those bare spots. No bare spots no weeds.

Longer daylight hours, and gradually warming soil temperatures have started to green up area lawns and golf courses. Hazy brown turf is turning bright green as new grass shoots pop out of the ground in response to the first spring fertilizer treatment.

Thin areas and bare spots show up quickly as the rest of the lawn begins to turn green. Winter injury to newly seeded areas is apparent. Dead crabgrass and foxtail form brown patches and bare spots in the otherwise green turf. Heavily shaded areas look particularly forlorn and muddy.

Question of the week. Can I seed my lawn today? The answer is almost always, YES! Grass Pad customers have been successful in seeding twelve months of the year. Every year and every season brings a new challenge when it comes to overseeding, and if you have reasonable expectations when you seed your lawn in May, you can be successful.

Reasonable expectations. If the coming summer is as wet as the last three, then there is an excellent chance the majority of your spring seeding will survive the summer with routine watering. If the weather pattern changes and we get high heat, blowing wind and no rainfall for extended periods, even the most drought tolerant grass seed will have a tough time surviving without a mature root system.

The good news is that Mother Nature wants to give you some help in greening up your lawn and filling in those unsightly bare spots. Grass plants have a biological clock and will begin to sprout and fill as the weather warms. The bad news is that ordinary lawn weeds will also start as fast

Weed control problems can create an interruption in spring seeding. But patience and timing will help guaranteed success. If broadleaf weeds are a severe problem, treat before starting to seed. Liquid weed control products containing Trimec or Speedzone do an excellent job for spot treatment or granular Loveland Weed and Feedfor large areas.

Wait five days after broadleaf weed treatments and then begin your seeding program. Although some seed may be lost by seeding so quickly, the higher risk is summer’s approaching hot weather.

Eliminate crabgrass when overseeding in early May by applying Tupersan, a seed safe pre-emergent, and Golf Course Starterthe same day. Once the seed has germinated and has grown tall enough to have been mowed twice, apply Prevent for season-long crabgrass control.

How long do I wait to seed after applying Prevent? Overseeding is not an option after you have applied Prevent. However, you can be successful seeding small bare spot areas using Uncle's Seed Sandwich technique, using a layer of PrimeraFC as an insulator above the Prevent barrier.

Hot, humid temperatures can fuel turf disease in healthy turf. Being prepared and starting early, fungus spots are a lot easier to prevent than to cure. Shaded areas are of particular concern. Restricted air movement and humid conditions can stimulate turf disease rapidly. By applying granular Fungus Fighter now, we can protect the lawn before pathogens get into the plant and wreak havoc. Fungus Fighters allow a healthy lawn to outgrow many of the diseases that show up.

Grass Pad Fungus Fighter provides control of many important diseases in turf including but not limited to Kentucky bluegrass, annual bluegrass, fescue, rye, and zoysia grass.

Fungus Fighter is a broad-spectrum xylem systemic fungicide for the control of certain diseases in turf. Fungus Fighter works by interfering with the respiration in plant-pathogenic fungi, and is a potent inhibitor of spore germination and mycelial growth. The active ingredient moves rapidly into green tissue via transluminal and xylem movement. Roots of plants take up the active ingredient where it is translocated throughout the xylem of plants to provide internal inhibition of fungal growth and protect the plant from new infections. Fungus Fighter makes it an excellent choice as the foundation fungicide for turf management programs.

Bluegrass diseases show up in the form of a slime or dust that wipes off, or even a patch that seems to die overnight. Mow bluegrass shorter in the spring and be vigilant in the areas under trees or on the north that seem to hold the heavy dew longer in the morning. Mow the lawn shorter while it is cool, and rain is plentiful. In June, raise the mowing height and don't let the lawn dry out too much before starting the summer watering schedule. If fungus shows up apply fast acting liquid fungicide and follow up with granular Fungus Fighter one week later. If large areas die in the summer, add Stadium Special, perennial ryegrass, to your favorite blend of bluegrass this fall.

Related:Overseeding Fall Lawns

Fescue diseases can be a little more predictable than bluegrass. Expect fungus to show up as soon as the temperature and humidity added together reach 150, usually early in June. Applying granular Fungus Fighter every 21 days through mid-August should keep you ahead of the game. If fungus patches do appear or every other blade of grass is brown, apply liquid Fungus Fighter, then granular one week later. Be sure and overseed those areas in the fall. Use the newest varieties of fescue, like Heat Wave or Macho Mix to ensure the most up to date disease resistant varieties.

Give it a one-two punch. Certain fungal pathogens are known to develop resistance to products with the same mode of action when used repeatedly. Because resistance development cannot be predicted, the use of Fungus Fighters should follow resistance management strategies established for turf. Such strategies may include rotation with products having different modes of action or limiting the total number of applications per season. For more information on developing a resistance management strategy talk to our turf experts at your nearest Grass Pad location.

Related:More Summer Lawn Survival Tips

Agricultural droughts that impact the 3.4 billion-dollar Kansas wheat harvest will gain national media coverage globally, but when we have a drought that effects our lawns and landscapes, it can frequently be overlooked until we realize it is impacting our own homes. Right now, in Kansas City, we are on the verge of seeing damage to lawns and recently planted landscapes that have not occurred in decades according to Jerry Moore of the Grass Pad in Olathe Kansas. “I went into this business 40 plus years ago and had never seen lawns this brown in May”. “Grass looks like it normally does in August and it is still May.” According to the latest data from Eric Luebehusen, with the U.S. Department of Agriculture most of Kansas continues to be in moderate to severe drought with extreme drought in southwest Kansas.

When grass turns brown like this, it allows sunlight to get to the soil and dry it out even faster. The sun will cause our weed preventers to fail, and crabgrass and foxtail will appear earlier this year than usual. When lawns have crabgrass and foxtail epidemics that last more than the typical month of August the desirable grasses are crowded out, and the fall frost will leave the yard bare and susceptible to soil erosion over the winter.

Trees and shrubs planted in the last 3 to 5 years are at risk as well. According to the Morton Arboretum during times of drought like this, the young roots of trees and shrubs are killed outright. The soil becomes hard and compact in the top 1 to 2 feet where the roots live. Plants like trees, shrubs, groundcovers and especially evergreens without adequate watering will suffer much. Massive plant loss is likely if it does not begin to rain. Add these conditions to the increased planting Kansas City has seen recently with the current Real Estate boom these losses will add up to millions of dollars in damage and loss.

People should be diligent about watering their lawns and landscapes. The soil should be saturated at least 12 inches deep. Trees that have been planted in the last five years will not have developed a root system extensive enough to withstand a drought that could go on for six months or more.

Insects, as well as weeds, thrive in these conditions. Ants, fleas, and ticks love dry conditions and will reproduce unharmed by typical spring rainstorms that have missed us. Pets and people should be monitored closely as last weeks warm weather will trigger the hatch cycles of most all pests.

Got Bagworms?

You’ve seen them hanging from evergreens and spruce trees every summer. With our mild temperatures last winter you can expect record numbers. Left unchecked bagworm populations will grow to damaging levels very quickly. One bagworm can produce over 1,000 baby bagworms.

Bagworm eggs overwinter on the leaves and needles of a host plant and hatch in late spring to early summer. The best time to control bagworms is immediately after hatch, while bagworms are still small. Liquid controls will penetrate their cocoon bags more effectively when they are young. During the egg hatch until the bagworm is about the size of a pencil eraser are the most effective times to kill bagworms with a liquid application using one of Grass Pad's Critter Gitters such as Cyonara or Bifen.

Do it now! Spray liquidCritter Gitter while temperatures are still mild, and the bagworms are small for best control. Junipers and Spruce are bagworm magnets, but bagworms will feed on just about any plant. To apply, mix Grass Pad Critter Gitter according to label specifications, then saturate the leaves and needles thoroughly spraying the ground under trees and bushes is also recommended. Liquid Critter Gitter is also useful for control of fleas, ticks, ants, cricket and chiggers in the lawn.

In the age of instant gratification, turf grass sod provides the “instant lawn.” Sod is to grass seed what pop tarts are to breakfast. Homeowners who want to have instant green grass by tomorrow should consider bluegrass or fescue sod instead of grass seed.

On established homes, sod is an excellent choice for certain problem areas. Small patches around the driveway or patio that have been damaged over the winter months are easily repaired with sod. Garden patches or flower beds that are being replaced or redesigned will be immediately transformed into lawn. In areas where washouts and erosion are a problem, sod is a natural choice.

Around the house, in front of gutter downspouts or on slopes where grass seed will be washed away, sod is the problem solver. Dog runs, play grounds, tire tracks, gasoline or fertilizer burns, all are common problems for which sod is the answer.

How to Install Sod: GREEN SIDE UP!

Grading: Sod should be installed on smooth, even ground. The ground should be bare, firm and free of rocks. Once the soil is smooth and level, apply gypsum to the bare soil (40 lbs per 1,000 sqft).
Installing: The rolls should be placed tightly together with the seams staggered. The outermost edges of the sod should not be exposed, cover them with soil or place them at ground level. Anchor with sod staples on steep slopes.
Fertilizing: Your new sod must be fertilized at installation. In March - June apply PREVENT! crabgrass pre-emergent with fertilizer. Reapply in 4 weeks. This will suppress crabgrass and foxtail in the seams and cracks between the rolls. In July - February apply LOVELAND GOLF COURSE STARTER fertilizer or RENOVATOR. Re-apply 4 weeks later.
Watering Fresh Sod: The most important step in any successful sod job. Fresh sod must be watered at once and kept wet for two to three weeks. Homeowners should plan to water sod at least twice a day for one hour at a setting during the hottest part of the day. Sod should be sloppy wet after installation and continually when temperatures are above 80° the first two weeks.
How much water is enough? Use the wet beach towel test. Place a wet beach towel on your driveway and see how fast it dries out. On hot windy days, the beach towel and the sod can dry out in hours. The beach towel will not die, the sod will.
Mowing: After installation the grass blades will be horizontal. With proper watering, in 10 to 14 days, your sod will begin to stand up. Mow sod as often as needed with a sharp blade and your mower on the highest setting. Water sod immediately after mowing.

A few more tips:
Sod is guaranteed to die, unless you water for the 1st hour.
In warm spring weather, sod begins to heat up in the roll as soon as it is cut. The better the sod, the sooner it begins to heat up. Sod that cannot be installed promptly should be unrolled in the shade and watered until the project is ready to start.

How big is a roll of sod?

1 roll of Blue Wave bluegrass or Heat Wave fescue sod is apprx. 9 square ft.
1 roll of sod weighs apprx. 25 lbs. We can usually fit about 10 in an average trunk
1 pallet of Blue Wave sod or Heat Wave sod has 50-56 rolls
1 pad of zoysia sod is apprx. 3 square feet 1.5' wide x 2' long
1 pallet of zoysia sod has aprx 90 pads

Sod delivery is available, contact your nearest Grass Pad location for more information.
How much sod do I need?

Times can get a little hectic in the summer. Lots of things on your mind with summer vacations, holidays and kids out of school. Don't forget about the hard work you put into the lawn this spring, so here are 5 reminders to ensure your lawn's summer survival.

1. Summer weed pressure. Now is the time those ugly summer weeds will move into the lawn. Walk around your lawn and identify your weeds to determine your mode of control. Dandelions, clover, maple and elm sprouts along with other broadleaf weeds can be controlled with spot spraying using Speedzone or a granular application of Loveland Weed and Feed. If your lawn has a mix of broadleaf weeds and crabgrass, Uncle’s Q-bomb will control both weed types in one simple spray solution. Summer time is also the season for nutgrass invasions. Typically showing up in areas with poor drainage, nutgrass or yellow nutsedge can be a little more difficult to control. Uncle’s Nut Buster will control nutgrass. Nutgrass is a little slower to react while Nut Buster is being absorbed deep into the nutlets. Nutgrass tops will start to yellow and fade in 7-10 days.

2. Summer lawn food. If it’s been more than a month since you fed the lawn, it may be time to give it a little summer boost. Uncle's Green Love the ideal summer lawn fertilizer. Slow release formula containing iron, will not burn plants, and will green up your lawn fast and not make it grow six inches a week. Providing iron will keep grass deep dark green for a long time. Green Love contains organically complex iron and won't discolor concrete.

3. Summer Critter Gitters. Summer is for more family time on the patio and in the yard. Control chiggers, ticks, fleas and ants using liquid Cyanora around the lawn and spraying up onto the house will help to control a broad spectrum of biting insects. If you have butterfly gardens nearby, use granular Critter Gitter on the lawn and water it in. This will help to prevent any overspray into the flower bed because not all bugs are bad.

July is also the time to apply Long Lasting Grub Control into the lawn. Absorbed by the roots of the grass plant, Long Lasting Grub Control will protect your lawn from damaging white grubs during their hatch this fall. Mama and Papa June bug are making babies now and soon those eggs will hatch into hungry baby grubs. Baby grubs are voracious and feed on yummy grass roots.

4. Summer Turf Fungus. Frequent night time rains and high humidity this summer create ideal situations for brown patch and other turf diseases. Early application of Fungus Fighter is your best defense against disease, but sometimes it gets missed and you will need a curative application. Fungus Fighter will not turn a brown lawn green, but it will keep the disease in check, preventing it from spreading. Remember, you will need to reapply Fungus Fighter about every 21-28 days to maintain control.

5. Shade Grass. In those established lawns with heavy shade, summer months are the time to deep water those areas. Big trees will use up much-needed water from your soil, leaving less water for your grass. Re-seeding shaded areas with additional Premium Shade Mix will help fight weed pressure.

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Why Do You Always See the Japanese beetles in swarms?

Plant odors attract both sexes to potential food sites. Japanese beetle feeding produces odors which act as pheromones to attract other Japanese beetles to the area to feed and mate. Pheromones are chemical odors used by insects to communicate.

Where Did They Come From?

Originally from Asia, Japanese beetles were brought over to the United States in 1917 into New Jersey. Currently the insect can be found established in all states east of the Mississippi River, except for Florida and Louisiana.

How Can I Kill Japanese beetles?

To kill the adult stage Japanese beetle contact insecticides that can be used are:

Cyonara
Bifen
Malathion

Always read the instructions and apply as directed from the label for any pesticide.

What about Japanese Beetle Traps?

Japanese beetle traps do work in that they capture adult beetles. However, placement is critical. DO NOT place the traps near any plant material you do NOT want the beetles feeding on. Although the trap is quite effective in attracting the beetle, only about 70 percent of the beetles end up in the trap. In addition, pheromone traps attract more beetles to your property than would have visited your property naturally. Research has shown that putting the traps in the perimeter of the property well away from valuable plantings or vulnerable crops may be the best use of the traps. Traps work better if you also get your neighbors to set out traps. Use a community-wide approach of 25 to 50 traps per square mile.

To kill the grub stage of Japanese and Southern Chafer beetle or white grub, timing of application is critical.

Preventative Control for grubs is Long Lasting Grub Control Designed to be applied before a potential grub problem develops. Normally applied in late June to early July and effective against the baby grubs as they hatch.
Curative control for grubs is Quick Kill Grub Control containing Dylox. Normally applied in August or September, after the eggs have hatched and grubs are present. Very fast acting with a short active life. Water heavily after application to penetrate thatch.

Lawn Alert

July 2018

Lot’s of folks have been asking if they should continue to water their brown lawns. This is what Uncle recommends.

If your lawn is looking great: You have been watering routinely, continue your normal watering cycles, and you get a gold star for staying ahead of the game. Don’t change a thing.

If your lawn is brown and toasty: You’ve been away on vacation or just couldn't find the time or money to keep ahead of the watering, it is okay to allow your lawn to go dormant in this heat. Dormancy is a good thing, that’s Mother Nature’s way of helping the grass plant to survive. An established yard can survive drought periods for a few weeks, but high heat and wind can really mess things up.

We would encourage you to water 1 to 2 inches every other week to keep the roots alive. We’re not trying to green it up, just helping the roots and crowns to survive the summer furnace blast. Water in the morning hours to help reduce evaporation. If you need to mow, mow high and try to keep foot traffic to a minimum.

Save yourself $500 water bills this month and next. You can use half of it for seed this fall and send the other half to the Royals relief fund.

Japanese Beetle Invasion

Reduce Salt Damage to Build Healthy Soil

First Week in March: What You Should Be Doing In Your Lawn

Uncle's Early Spring tips:

Dare to Go Bare!

How High to Cut the Grass

Mow Reasons to Mow Better

Hydrangea Will Brighten Shade Areas This Summer

Growing Tips for Fragrant Lilacs

Painting your Landscape for Summer Color

Best Controls for Japanese Beetles and Emerald Ash Borer

Ants, Fleas, Ticks and Chiggers!

Know thy enemies

An army travels on its stomach

Look for signs

Choose your weapon

Diverse Tactics

Timing is crucial

Never surrender

Don't Let Spring Rains Cancel Your Outdoor Plans

Healthy Lawns for a Healthy Earth

Today is May Day. Is it too late to over seed my yard?

Grass Pad: Turf Disease Control for Home Lawns

Kansas City is in Horticultural Drought

Control Bagworms in Junipers Now!

Got Bagworms?

How To Lay Sod in Four Simple Steps

5 Things You Should be doing for Summer Lawn Survival

How Can I Kill Japanese Beetles?