The Grass Rhizome

Taking care of your lawn is a lot like being a coach and every successful coach has a playbook filled with game plans for any opponent. Just like the coach on your favorite sports team, the first thing a good lawn coach will need to know are the rules of the game so he can use his brain to take every advantage against his opponent. Secondly, a good lawn coach will choose the right players for the right position. The best lawn coaches will condition their players to be more successful and perform at their best. And third, greatest lawn coaches will study their opponents. They learn their habits and weaknesses to take an advantage. They stay cool, calm and collected under stressful situations, knowing eventually with a little blood, sweat and tears making the right choices will lead him to victory.

Learn the Rule Book. Mother Nature wrote the rules; you just have to play by them. Every year natures grass plants reseed the earth as part of their natural rejuvenation cycle. Each grass seed is a real engineering marvel that is designed to wiggle its way into the soil and sprout. Uncle's secret play in lawn care is to imitate Mother Nature. Grass seed planted now will root and establish in warm September soils and be ready for explosive growth in spring.

Choose the right players. If you favor explosive offense, the long pass and succulent green grass that drives your neighbors wild with lawn envy, you are a prototypical bluegrass aficionado. You prefer red wine and crusty French bread. You appreciate bluegrass as Mother Nature’s masterpiece. It provides dark color, vigorous rhizomes and produces a thick, dense turf that is a soft delight for bare feet. You should look for Blue Wave. Bluegrass will always cost a little more per pound because it contains more seeds per pound (over one million). Per seed, bluegrass is the best value.

If you prefer an off-tackle running game you are probably a turf fescue kind of guy. You prefer draft beer, ribs, and pepperoni pizza and want your lawn care project completed before the second half starts. You should look for turf fescue seed varieties such as Heat Wave or Macho Mix. These provide drought tolerant, good looks and can take the wear and tear of turf use in both commercial and home lawns.

lawns.

If you are more excited about the kick offs and punt returns of the special teams, then using Estate Mix or Heat Wave Plus will be a perfect pick. A perfect balance of aggressive bluegrasses and sports turf perennial ryes, Estate Mix will fill in routine damage and stand up to heavy traffic between the hash marks. Estate Mix will give your lawn that soft, well manicured look of a golf course fairway. Heat Wave Plus will give you the heat and drought tolerance of improved turf-type fescues with the self repairing abilities of bluegrass. A mixture of 95% Heat Wave plus 5% elite bluegrass, Heat Wave Plus is Uncle's most popular special team player.

Know Your Opponents. Summer weed grasses like crabgrass and foxtail will begin to turn yellow and die with the first frost. If your lawn has a serious densely matted weed problem, a close mowing and verticutting will quickly prepare a ready seed bed. Rake off the worst trash and plant the new grass seed directly into the old weed stubble. It will hold moisture and nurture the new grass plants. Grass seed planted now will be strong enough in the spring to tolerate a full strength weed prevention program.

Follow the Playbook. Once your team has been chosen, the rules of the game are the same for every team. Seed, feed and water it's just that simple, or is it? If you want your lawn to be in Uncle's Hall of Fame, you need to call the right play. Steal a page from Uncle's Playbook, he's the Vince Lombardi of lawn coaches.

Uncle's secret play in lawn care has always been to imitate Mother Nature. September 21 marks the autumn solstice and the beginning of the grass plant growing cycle. Grass seed planted now can root down in warm fall soils and be ready for explosive growth in the spring.

Keep it Idiot Proof:
1. Lightly rake bare spots.
2. Overseed the lawn using extra seed over bare spots
3. Fertilize with Golf Course Starter or Renovator
4. Topdress bare spots with weed free PrimeraFC or sphagnum peat. (Never use topsoil or composts containing weed seeds.)

Don't Fall Behind! The biggest enemy of a successful fall lawn program is procrastination. Get off your duff and do it now. Two half days work this fall will save a week's work in the spring. Read Uncle's Playbook and learn the Post Route or what he calls his Idiot Proof Program for Fall Renovation and if all else has failed, try the Hail Mary or his Tips to a Total Lawn Restoration at Grasspad.com

Download Uncle's Tips on Fall Seeding

Every fall there is a bit of blarney in the seed business. Some folks are now adding fillers and coatings to their grass seed and selling it as magic. Why some seed bags are now only half full with grass seed, the rest is labeled as “inert” matter. Often the half full bag commands the highest price on the shelf. The plastic jugs are now stacking up on the end caps at big box stores. Four-pound plastic jugs are being sold with an only one-quarter pound of seed inside. My Uncle says in the old days folks would pour water into the whiskey jug and label it “Jack Daniels.” Back in the hills of Tennessee you would get shot. Today the scallywag gets rich. Kansas Sen. John James Ingalls wrote that, “Grass is the forgiveness of nature – her constant benediction." He probably didn't like water in his whiskey, either.

Grass Seed 101

Here are some simple rules to follow when buying grass seed. First, read the label. Every grass seed bag has an analysis label. It is usually on the back of the bag in super fine print. Read it. The label or tag will list what seed varieties are in the mix, and will show the inert matter, and weed and crop content. Avoid ugly weeds and grasses like annual rye, orchard grass, and coarse bladed K-31. Read the analysis label and only pay for the real grass seed.

Small amounts of “inert” matter naturally occur in any grass seed bag. Inert matter includes seed hulls, stems and dust that are the natural residue of the seed cleaning process. Careful seed farmers strive to produce grass seed that is free of weed and crop with as little “inert” matter as possible. A master seed cleaner can clean and bag grass seed with less than two percent inert matter. “Inert” matter is what he throws away. The grass seed is what he keeps.

Grass Seed 102
Second, do the math. Bring your pocket calculator and always calculate the one pound price when buying seed. Modern packaging makes the true weight and cost of grass seed a bit of a math quiz. It's like buying a carton of eggs. You don't know if the price is right until you know how many eggs you get. Other bogeys include inflated “recommended coverage” and “new discoveries” advertised on the internet.

At the Grass Pad we think Mother Nature put the magic in the grass seed. Every fall a green blanket of grass plants reseeds the surface of planet earth. It is the grass life cycle that controls erosion, cleans the air, purifies the ground water, and cools the surface of the planet. It is the soft green blanket that snuggles your toes, your children, and your pets. It heals the earth, reduces CO/2 emissions and is fun to play on. How much more magic do you want?

Because we think there is green environmental magic in every green grass plant, we recommend more seed not less. We put fifty pounds of grass seed in a fifty-pound bag and suggest you use it all. Fall overseeding provides genetic diversity and youthful vigor to grass habitat on the plains of Kansas and the lawns of Kansas City. Mother Nature takes care of one; the Grass Pad takes care of the other.

This fall, when planning your landscape designs think of these five Idiot Proof Plants for excellent multi-season color in the garden or landscape. Uncle's Idiot Proof shrubs have proven to be the most reliable, plants to use in your next landscape project. Woody shrubs can bring brilliant color to the fall season.

Burning Bush:Fire Ball a new Proven Winners introduction, has outstanding bright red fall foliage. Hardier than other varieties. Fire Ball is an improved selection of compact burning bush with tighter branching and superior hardiness.

Itea:Short N’ Sweet is a compact sweetspire. This deer-resistant plant is exceptionally hardy for the Midwest region growing to three feet tall and slightly wider. Best grown in full sun to part shade. Fragrant spires of tiny white flowers cover the shrub blooming in late spring to early summer. Oval green leaves turn shades of orange, red and purple in the fall, can be shaped and trimmed for foundations or borders.

Sumac:Tiger Eyes is a beautiful golden-leafed form of cut leaf staghorn sumac. New growth is a lively chartreuse green, quickly changing to yellow with both colors contrasting nicely with the rosy-pink leaf stems. As magnificent as the summer colors are, the dramatic effect of yellow, orange and intense scarlet in autumn are unparalleled.

Gro-Lo Fragrant sumac is excellent for slopes and banks. Reaching only three feet high and six feet wide. Both tolerating poorly drained soils as well as very dry soil.

Viburnum: Uncle's favorite Idiot Proof Plant. Many good varieties, just too many to list. A few of our most popular are the Juddi, Leatherleaf, Double-File, Eastern Snowball and Korean Spice. You can find a viburnum in all shapes and sizes to fit almost any growing conditions. Most varieties will have fragrant spring blooms in white or pink tones.

Dwarf viburnum varieties are available; however, the most common viburnum varieties will average 6'-8' high and wide. Select varieties will have a profusion of berries in fall changing to colors from flaming red, orange and purple.

Hydrangea: Many excellent varieties of hydrangea provide color in the fall. Dark green foliage turning an outstanding brick red. Bold, fragrant flowers of white, pink or blue at the ends of the branches bloom from early to mid-summer.

The spectacular red fall color makes the Oakleaf Hydrangea or Proven Winners Twist N’ Shout perfect choices for a garden or mass planting.

Fall is the perfect season for new shrub and tree installations. Plants suffer less transplant shock when planted in fall. The best plant selections for fall landscapes is available now at Grass Pad nurseries. Truckloads of fresh nursery stock arrive daily. Come on down to the Grass Pad and bring your measurements, our experienced nursery staff can help you find the right plant to fit your landscape.

If you haven’t over-seeded your lawn this September, today is better than tomorrow and tomorrow is better than next week. As fall approaches, days get shorter and night time temperatures drop. Crabgrass, foxtail, and annual grassy weeds turn yellow and shrivel leaving room for turf seed to germinate in cooling soils. September over-seeding helps thicken existing turf eliminating bare spots. Next spring, if no bare spots, there will be no weeds.

Mother Nature has it figured out, after 2 millions years of over-seeding the prairies; we follow her recipe. In their natural growth cycle, grass plants form seed heads and re-seed themselves. Regular mowing eliminates the seed head. Mimic Mother Nature by re-seeding in fall. Over-seeding will introduce youthful vigor and genetic diversity in existing turf. The strongest plants survive and carry on the integrity of the stand. Over-seeding with improved varieties of grass seed will create better quality turf for the future.

Macho Mix turf-type fescue contains only the best performing varieties for the mid-west. Improved turf-type tall fescues in Macho Mix are finer in leaf texture, darker in color, denser growth habit and provide superior disease resistance. Macho Mix turf-type fescue retains good color during the winter months and provides a year-round green lawn. Lower and slower growing turf-type fescues mean less mowing. Denser growth habits mean fewer weeds and less clumping. Improved disease tolerance means less maintenance.

See Related: Grass Seed Buyers Guide

Blue Wave type bluegrass varieties in Uncle’s Estate Mixare university tested and golf course proven in the mid-west region. Today’s elite bluegrass varieties are different than what your parents were planting just a few years ago. People can be quick to malign bluegrass, but if you look at its short comings, the only problem it really has is with the lack of water. A conservative irrigation plan will carry your bluegrass lawn to the first of September when the cool nights and fall rains return. Aggressive bluegrass varieties fill in routine damage and give your
lawn that soft well manicured look.

See Related: Uncle's Playbook for Lawn Coaches

September to Mid October is plenty of time to fix most turf problem. Seeding in September, when the days are warm and nights are cool will allow grass seed to sprout very quickly. Fertilize with Renovator or Golf Course Starter now and again in 4 weeks. An application of fall fertilizer pushes the root system deep into the soil. At Thanksgiving time, fertilize with Snowman winter root builder and your lawn will wake up next spring thick and green with an established root system.

If you haven’t over seeded your lawn this fall, today is better than tomorrow and tomorrow is better than next week. In fall, days get shorter and night time temperatures drop. Crabgrass, foxtail, and annual grassy weeds turn yellow and shrivel leaving room for turf seed to germinate in cooling soils. Fall overseeding helps thicken existing turf eliminating bare spots. Next spring, if no bare spots, there will be no weeds.

Mother Nature has it figured out, after 2 millions years of overseeding the prairies; we follow her recipe. In their natural growth cycle, grass plants form seed heads and re-seed themselves. Regular mowing eliminates the seed head. Mimic Mother Nature by re-seeding in fall. Overseeding will introduce youthful vigor and genetic diversity in existing turf. The strongest plants survive and carry on the integrity of the stand. Overseeding with improved varieties of grass seed will create better quality turf for the future.

Macho Mix turf-type fescue contains only the best performing varieties in the mid-west. New turf-type tall fescues in Macho Mix are finer in leaf texture, darker in color, denser growth habit and provide superior disease resistance. Macho Mix turf-type fescue retains good color during the winter months and provides a year-round green lawn. Lower and slower growing turf-type fescues mean less mowing. Denser growth habits mean fewer weeds and less clumping. Improved disease tolerance means less maintenance.

Bluegrass varieties in Uncle’s Estate Mix are university tested and golf course proven in the mid-west. Today’s elite bluegrass varieties are different than what your parents were planting just a few years ago. People can be quick to malign bluegrass, but if you look at its short comings, the only problem it really has is with the lack of water. A conservative irrigation plan will carry your bluegrass lawn to the first of September when the cool nights and fall rains return. Aggressive bluegrass varieties fill in routine damage and give your lawn that soft well manicured look.

Do it Now! There is plenty of time to fix most turf problem. Seeding in fall, when the days are warm and nights are cool will allow grass seed to sprout very quickly. Fertilize with Renovator or Golf Course Starter now and again in 4 weeks. An application of fall fertilizer pushes the root system deep into the soil. At Thanksgiving time, fertilize with Snowman winter root builder and your lawn will wake up next spring thick and green with an

Why should you fertilize trees and shrubs? Improve the health and disease tolerance of your trees and shrubs each year by supplementing much-needed nutrients every fall using fertilizer spikes or a root feeder. Shrubs and trees require energy stores to survive the winter and maintain healthy vigor to defend against pests and diseases.

Feeding established trees and shrubs is idiot-proof. Fertilizer spikes are a combination of slow fertilizers compressed to form a spike. These hard spikes can be driven into the ground using a mallet or hammer or after a dry season, using an auger drill makes installation much easier. Do not use fertilizer spikes on newly installed trees or shrubs. Spikes contain fertilizers in amounts not recommended for new trees or shrubs.

A root feeder can also be used to fertilize established trees. Connecting to your garden hose, special water soluble tablets are inserted into the root feeder handle. The attached hollow metal probe is pushed deep into the soil. As water flows through the root feeder, fertilizer tablets dissolve quickly, and nutrients become readily available to the roots. These root feeders can be used for deep watering trees during drought periods.

For newly installed trees and shrubs use Uncle's Root Accelerator containing a special starter fertilizer formula. Uncle’s Root Accelerator is specifically formulated for new plantings and is recommended for all trees and shrubs that have been installed for less than 12 months. Promoting rapid root growth, Uncle’s Root Accelerator, applied once per month for the first year will improve your transplanting results. Uncle’s Root Accelerator concentrate is mixed with water and poured at the base of the tree or shrub.

How much fertilizer will you need? Bring your tree measurements with you and our sales staff can help you determine how many spikes or tablets required for your tree. Fertilizer formulas are available for shade, ornamental and fruit trees. Measure your tree trunk diameter about 18 inches from the base to get the most accurate measurement. Shrubs and multi-stem trees without a main trunk, just estimate their height.

It’s October, and the lawn is looking fantastic. The neighbors are impressed, flashing the big thumbs up as they drive by. Standing on the driveway feeling a great sense of satisfaction in all the hard work and attention to detail from your diamond pattern cut and your edges trimmed to perfection. Turning that yard from drought-ravaged clay hard pan into this thick lush and green paradise of turf will make any homeowner swell with pride. It’s a glorious feeling when you look forward to mowing your lawn. But, this is October, how do we keep it looking like Augusta National in July?

Pay attention to the details and prepare your lawn for next year’s unpredictable season. The best lawns in spring are overseeded and fertilized in the fall. Don’t forget to follow all the steps to Uncle’s Idiot Proof Program. It’s easy to forget, the lawn looks great after overseeding, with that booster application of Renovator or Golf Course Starter fertilizer, and you lose track of time and forget that 2nd application four weeks later. If you have the program and you still have bags of Renovator or Golf Course Starter sitting on your garage floor in mid October, get that 2nd fall application of fertilizer on to the lawn. Snowman, winter root builder, goes down at Thanksgiving.

Work those spots. Now is the time to get out and walk the lawn looking for bare spots. Bare spots that may have been overlooked or the seed was washed away. Use Macho Mix or Estate Mix, both have perennial sports rye that will germinate quick in cooler soils and establish quickly avoiding any winter damage. Use PrimeraFC or sphagnum peat moss over the top of the seed and keep it moist. Remember, “No bare spots will mean no spring weeds next spring.”

October and November are an excellent time to control broadleaf weeds like dandelions, clover, and chickweed. In fall, broadleaf perennial weeds are busy collecting energy from photosynthesis and storing it in the crown and roots. Speedzone contains systemic herbicides that will move through the leaf tissue and in to the crown and roots for a complete kill. Killing broadleaf weeds in fall will allow turf to grow and fill in bare spots this fall before crabgrass or other weeds germinate next spring.

Many people believe fall to be the most beautiful season, as leaves change from green to brilliant shades of yellow, orange, red and purple. Watching leaves turn color can be one of the highlights of the fall season.

Colorful fall leaves are almost magical and especially lovely when the most beautiful trees are in your own yard. Uncle created this list of our best landscape trees for Mid-West fall color. Uncle’s favorites are selected for hardiness in the mid-west and sure to perform beautifully in our area. Any of these beauties will add prominent color to your fall landscape.

Wildfire blackgum is a magnificent three season tree. New spring growth has a fiery red leaf turning green in summer and exploding into vivid flame-red again in fall. Outstanding as a specimen tree and breathtaking in rows along property lines or driveways. A very long-lived tree, the Wildfire blackgum will be enjoyed for many generations. Height: 50’ Spread: 30’

Red Rage blackgum with its deep dark green glossy leaves in summer has excellent resistance to leaf spot. Turning dazzling red with the arrival of fall weather, Red Rage Blackgum is native to Indiana. Height: 25’ Spread:20’

Red Pointe maple with its radiant red fall color and upright broadly pyramidal form make this improved red maple a stand out. A straight and dominant central leader result in strong branch angles makes Red Pointe one of the most desirable of all red maples. Height: 45' Spread: 30'

Sun Valley maple, a U.S. National Arboretum introduction, glows in the fall with reliable, bright red color. A hybrid between Red Sunset and Autumn Flame, it is seedless and features a very uniform, dense head. Height:40’ Spread:35’

Flashfire Sugar Maple was selected from Caddo Mountain sugar maple seedlings. This tree has the brightest red fall color we have seen from cultivars adapted to southern heat. It features dark green summer foliage with better mildew resistance that other Caddo selections. Strong growth, early fall color of intense red make Flashfire a very pleasing addition to the landscape. Height: 45’ Spread: 40’

Autumn Brilliance serviceberry is another ideal three-season tree with color from spring to fall. Butterflies are drawn to the abundance of white blooms in spring. The flowers produce purplish-blue fruits that attract birds and wildlife. In fall, the leaves change to shades of orange to red. An attractive small specimen tree perfect for hedges or screens. Height: 20' Spread: 15'

See Related: How to Plant a Tree

Come on down to the Grass Pad. Let our Green Team help you find the perfect tree for any location and any budget. Instructions on care and planting are always available from our nursery experts. At Grass Pad we have everything for homeowners and professionals to be successful when planting trees and shrubs.

"Uncle, I followed your Fall Renovation Program, I used your weed free grass seed. Why do I have weeds in my yard?" Uncle's Response:"Well, it really means you did it right!"

When properly preparing your lawn for fall overseeding, you create a pathway for grass seed to reach the soil. If grass seed doesn't reach the soil, it won't grow. Uncle recommends verticutting, dethatching, aerating, or raking for maximum seed to soil contact.

Disturbing the soil (verticutting, aerating, dethatching or raking) exposes soil and any pre-existing weed seeds that lay dormant in the soil. These weed seeds could be from last year or several years ago, suspended under the soil, too deep to germinate waiting for their opportunity to spring into life.

Most of these new weeds will be annual grassy weeds. Grassy weed seeds appreciate the same fertilizer and additional watering from your fall renovation program and flourish. Don't panic annual grassy weeds will be slow to germinate as soil temperatures cool in fall. Mother Nature will take care of these annual weeds at first frost. Using PREVENT, crabgrass preventer in mid-April will eliminate their return.

Dandelion, clover, spurge and numerous other broadleaf weeds are stimulated as well. Fall is an excellent time to control those broadleaf weeds. Perennial broadleaf weeds are busy sucking up much needed nutrients to store for overwintering. An application of Trimec or Speedzone can be applied 28 days after grass seed germination. A fall application of Trimec with Uncle's Stikit, spreader sticker or a granular application of Loveland Weed and Feed will be quickly absorbed by the broadleaf weeds and is sure to kill all the way to the roots.

Magnolias

The early bloom on these favorites will pump up any yard or garden. Show off the plantation with the Royal Star or a Saucer Magnolia.

The white flower of the Royal Star and the pink blossoms of the Saucer Magnolia are the first signs of spring here in the midwest.
Because the thrive in our area, they are at the top of Uncle’s list of Idiot Proof Plants.

Deep purple flower of the “Jane” magnolia has been around for a while and is a very under used variety. Scarlet paid a bundle to plant these at Tara.

The Sweet Bay magnolia, a magnificent glossy green leafed tree with a late blooming white flower, is a favorite with our customers.

Also, the Brackens Brown Beauty magnolia is a cold hardy variety of the southern magnolia, with its large glossy evergreen leaf along with the citrus smell on the summertime blooms is soon to become a classic itself.

Redbuds

They’re not just redbuds anymore. Enjoy the beautiful pink buds of the traditional Eastern Redbud, or try some of the new varieties, the bright purple buds of the Oklahoma Redbud, the white flower of the White Bud, or the burgundy leaf of the Forest Pansy Redbud.

Crabapples

With spring flowers and winter color, crabapples have always been a springtime favorite at the Grass Pad. These are a few of our most popular.

The Royal Raindrops and the Prairie Fire with excellent disease resistance and bright red flower is at the top of our most wanted list.

Spring Snow, with its white flower and green leaf, is the only fruitless variety of crabapple. Sargenti crabapples are very small ornamentals that retain their fruit and are great for bird habitats.

Salt damage! Heavy snows are often blamed for winter kill to lawn grasses and garden plants. Salt damage from caustic ice melter can be the real culprit. Where snow piles up around patios and driveways salt based, residues are concentrated by repeated use. These heavy salt concentrations will damage turf grass and a variety of landscape plantings. Wherever the snow has been repeatedly thrown up on the curb by city snowplow trucks, a border of dead grass will appear. All grass varieties can be affected. Some like buffalo grass are particularly sensitive while, perennial rye and tall fescue are slighty more salt tolerant.

Salt ice melters applied in late winter, and early spring are likely to damage vegetation. This is because there is less time for winter snow and precipitation to leach salt from the root zone before growth resumes in the spring. Reduce the side effects from salt damage. Apply Grass Pad's pelletized Lawn CAL before the ground freezes in November and again in early spring. The calcium in Lawn CAL displaces salt residues which helps to reduce the uptake of damaging salts through the plants root zone. For best results, use pelletized Lawn CAL in your lawn spreader making two passes (full open rate) around street curbs, driveways, sidewalks or wherever ice melter will be repeatedly used in winter.

Calcium is one of the most misunderstood nutrients. Calcium plays a major role in plant physiology by strengthening the physical structure of the plant and helping with disease resistance. Grass Pad's Lawn CAL is all natural and safe for kids and pets.

Lawn repair! Lawn edges around sidewalks and driveways have also been damaged by snow removal equipment. Chunks of grass have been stripped up by snow blades and shovels. Tire tracks have plowed up turf areas once hidden under the snow. Here turf grass sod is the quick and easy fix and will repair the damage in an afternoon.

Grass seed first aid can also be used for patching and repair. Buy the seed first so you know it will match your existing lawn. Fine bladed grass seed mixes likeEstate Mix, Stadium Special or Macho Mix will sprout and blend well. Coarse bladed field grasses like annual rye or K-31 should be avoided no matter how appealing the picture on the bag.

PrimeraFC, field dressing, makes an excellent weed free top dressing for these spring seeding repairs. It helps keep the seed in place and speeds germination as well as drying up muddy areas around the patio or dog run. It has been used for many years on outdoor sports fields and is an inexpensive problem solver for home lawns as well.

Brown mud mush? In early spring, at the Grass Pad, we receive plenty of phone calls on lawns turned to brown mush by dogs and children running on waterlogged backyard soils. Big German Shepherds and energetic ten-year-olds seem to do the most damage. In these situations, the first aid fix is the same one used on sports fields that must be played in wet, cool weather.

First, applyPrimeraFC field dressing to help stabilize the muddy bare areas.
Second, seed with a fast starting, salt tolerant perennial rye in Grass Pad grass seed mixes like Stadium Special, Estate Mix or Macho Mix.
Third, follow Uncle's guide to spring seeding for tips on fertilization and crabgrass prevention.

It's been a dry winter and lawns are toasty brown. Grass blades have been frozen by winter temperatures and burned by winter sun. These old dried blades do not recover. In time they will be replaced by fresh green growth sprouting from the crowns and root system of the existing grass plant.

Every Spring Mother Nature gives plant life a chance to start over. The winter season has been a long time out. It's the first weekend in March and now there is a chance to begin anew. Gardener’s and home owners can't make Spring come one day sooner, but they can be prepared for an early start.

Uncle's Early Spring tips:

First, mow the lawn short: Lower your mower deck one or two notches. Being careful not to scalp your lawn. Pick up the grass clippings and remove any winter trash. This low mow will cut off the brown winter grass blades and open up the soil to the warm spring sunlight.
Second, give the lawn a booster shot of spring fertilizer. Golf Course Starter or Loveland Renovator formula will start the rejuvenation process four weeks early and help lawns thicken and fill in ahead of summer weeds and hot weather.
Third, over seed any bare spots larger than a salad plate with fresh clean lawn seed and top dress with PrimeraFC top dressing or sphagnum peat. Avoid seed blends that contain coarse bladed annual rye grass or ugly field fescue; and do not use top soil to top dress weed free Grass Pad grass seed. Top soil will contain coarse weed and sedge seed.
Fourth, water when you are able. Winter has had below average moisture. Surface conditions are extremely dry for turf. Water deep once or twice per week till normal spring rains arrive.

See Related: Tips on Spring Over Seeding

Spring thawing and frost heaves open up cracks in the soil that let in air and moisture. These cracks make March an ideal time to apply seed, fertilizer, lawn calcium and lime. Shady areas have been hit hard this winter and are ideal for mixes like Macho Mix or Estate Mix, If you have a house or rental property that needs a make over in the front yard look for a sports field rye blend like Stadium Special. This is real first aid for distressed real estate or a play area where kids and dogs have torn up the play field. Both fescue and bluegrass lawns may be over seeded now. But don't fiddle; new grass plants need an early start to be ready for hot weather.

Uncle's Rant:My Irish Uncle taught me a thing or two about thrift. He said keep your money in the mattress and always buy grass seed by the pound. READ THE LABEL! some seed bags are now only half full with grass seed, the rest is magic dust from the Leprechauns and Fairies. Uncle says this is like pouring water in the whiskey jug and calling it “Jack Daniels.” Homeowners should read the analysis label and only pay for the real grass seed. Recommended coverage is often so much blarney. Mother Nature puts the magic in the grass seed, the inert matter is just expensive dust.

See Related: When to apply PREVENT for crabgrass.

These days, foliage color and texture has become of greater importance in the landscape, container gardens, or in planters. We find ourselves ending up with the same handful of annuals, deciduous shrubs, evergreens, and perennials. We often overlook a plant family who can give us both color and texture; this plant family would be ornamental grasses.

Ornamental grasses hold a focal area in the landscape. Wanted for their foliage appearance; flower shoots (plume), texture, and winter interest. Foliage color among grasses can vary immensely, ranging from leaf colors of green, white, yellow, purple, orange and red tones to stripes, bands, and numerous variegation combinations. Growth habits include mounding, spreading and uprights with heights ranging from 6 inches to 12 feet.

Common uses for ornamental grasses in the landscape are changes in texture and height, softening up vertical edges, and camouflage for your utility boxes and water meters. The texture of the grasses is typically used to contrast broadleaf plants and to soften up the landscape. Grasses are free flowing and help us break the uniformity of highly manicured landscaping, providing a more natural appeal. Grasses can be both eye-catching as well as pleasing to the eye.

Plumes come up on stalks during the late part of the summer to the first part of the fall. The plumes, feather-like in appearance, can range in color from white to cream, black, pink or even a purplish tinge to them. Plumes can vary in size and shape adding even more to a plant that already looks good and brings the total package to any landscape.

Hardy in most conditions ornamental grasses do well in sun, part sun, and some varieties even in the shade. They also do well in moist and even wet conditions making them great additions to rain gardens and bioswales There is practically no place in the landscape an ornamental grass could not fit.

Creating idiot proof winter interest or indoor décor. As the grasses go dormant in the fall, leave the plumes uncut. The results will be a beautiful outdoor feature to enjoy during the late fall and winter. Offering protection from harsh winter conditions, the upright grass blades, are spectacular when snow covered. In addition, can provide shelter for wildlife. For some inside décor, bundle the plumes up, cut them off at ground level and place them in a nice decorative pot inside your home as a showpiece.

Considered low maintenance, ornamental grasses, will need to be cut back each year. Very forgiving, ornamental grasses can be cut back at any time from late December to early spring. Taller ornamental grasses must be cut back to allow new growth to rise from the center of the grass clump. Left uncut during spring growth cycle, the center stalks well be weak and underperforming from a lack of sunlight.

Rejuvenate your landscape adding low maintenance ornamental grasses that will reward you with color, texture, and the benefit of year long interest. Grass Pad nurseries stock a large selection of hardy and decorative annual varieties of ornamental grasses. Bring your catalogs and compare. Buy local and save money at Grass Pad.

Fantastic Five Ornamental Grasses

5. Dwarf Fountain Grass - Slender green leaves and tan, wooly, caterpillar-like blooms from mid-summer through autumn. Drought tolerant. Foliage height is 2' with blooms 3'.

4. Shenandoah Switch Grass - Bright red foliage deepens to burgundy by fall. Blooms begin in color, up by early June. A good substitute for Japanese Blood Grass. Foliage height is 2' to 3' with 4' blooms.

3. Maiden Grass - A tall, graceful, and clumping ornamental grass with slender, weeping, and silvery green leaves that turn golden bronze in fall. White, fan-shaped plumes in fall extend above the foliage. Foliage height is 5' with blooms 7'.

2. Japanese Silver Grass - A creamy-white variegated grass, Reddish-brown feathery seed heads turn to white plumes and contribute to the striking appearance of this grass. Matures at 6' to 8' tall and 4' to 5' wide. An excellent alternative to Pampas Grass.

1. Karl Foerster Feather Reed Switch Grass - Beautiful cool season grass with an upright growth habit. Flowers in late spring starting as bright pink to red and fading to buff. Thrives in poor soils. Foliage height 2.5' to 3.5' with blooms to 6'.

See Related: Top Twelve Ornamental Grasses

Measure the size of your lawn. An accurate measurement is important for calculating the right amount of grass seed and Renovator fertilizer. Simple way to measure is to walk the perimeter counting your steps, an average pace is about 3 feet. Multiply length x width and write it down.

Uncle's Tip: If you live in Johnson County Kansas you can find your land square footage via online mapping at Johnson County Automated Mapping Information System.

Choose the right seed for your conditions. Here are some questions that might help. What matters most to you about your lawn? What type of performance do you expect from your grass seed? Do you want the heat and drought tolerance of Macho Mix or would you prefer the golf course look and wear tolerance of Estate Mix? Is your lawn shaded or full sun? Do you have play areas for kids or big dogs? Our turf experts can guide you to the right seed for the right place.

See Related: Uncle's Best: Top Rated Grass Seed

Watch the calendar! Timing is everything and the earlier the better for root development to ensure winter survival. Grass seed sown in August and September will germinate quicker than grass seed sown in April. Warm soils, short days, cool nights and the welcome rains of September promise lower water bills for fall renovation.

ZOOM! for Bulbs!

Chosen as the most Fantastic Spring Flowering Bulb tulips continue to be the most popular with our customers. Valued for their flowers, tulips are deeply rooted into the Dutch culture. At one time, the entire Dutch economy was built upon the tulip. Originally from Turkey, tulips were brought to Eastern Europe in the 16th century, and have now become one of the world's most admired flowers.

You might think a tulip is just a tulip, but there are many diverse varieties of tulips available. Each type with its unique characteristics and habits. Here are six of the most popular types of tulips.

Triumph tulips are the most popular of all varieties. With its traditional shape tulip bloom, Triumph tulips are available in almost any color imaginable. Grown on a sturdy stem, Triumph makes an attractive garden flower as well as a fresh cut flower with a very long vase life.

Darwin hybrid tulips have the tallest and largest blooms and make an excellent choice for the home garden. Most Darwin hybrids are early season bloomers. An interesting side note, Darwin blooms have a habit of closing during cooler nights and opening with the warming sun.

Fosteriana tulips, known as Emperor tulips, are an excellent choice to fill your flower beds with a full season of color. With a uniquely shaped wide and long flower, Fosteriana tulips grow medium to tall. Emperor tulips are most impressive when planted in masses.

Greigii tulips bring the most fun to the garden spaces and planters. With variegated stems and shorter in stature, Greigii tulips pop with a massive flower bloom. The striped stems with purple streaks give flower beds and containers a little extra pizazz in early spring. Excellent choice for rock gardens, borders and containers.

Fringed tulips are the “shock and awe” of the tulip garden. One look at these distinctively shaped blooms and folks will be turning their heads. For an extended bloom life, plant fringed tulips in protected or covered areas. The flowers tend to hold water inside the petal and can shorten the bloom time.

Parrot Tulips have a ruffled and feather like texture resembling the wings of a parrot. Parrot tulips are the most outrageous of all tulip varieties. Most Parrot tulips are late season bloomers. The blooms tend to open with more sunlight and sometimes change colors as the flower matures. Their unique flower shape can make them susceptible to the wind and heavy rain damage, so it is best to plant in a protected area.

See Related: Choosing &Planting Fall Bulbs

ZOOM! for Bulbs

Colorful masses of eye-catching spring bulbs are an easy cure for those winter doldrums. Bulbs planted in fall make dazzling beds of bright neon colors blooming from February to May. Now is the time to get to the Grass Pad for the best selection. Dutch bulbs shipped straight from Sassenheim to Grass Pad Warehouses have arrived. Dutch Uncle has been buying bulbs from Holland for over 40 years. Uncle knows a Dutch Deal and these are his picks for the Fantastic Five Spring Flowering Bulbs to plant in the mid-west.

No. 5 Allium - Allium belong to the ornamental onion family. However, these will not be on the dinner plate. These idiot proof bulbs are some of the most distinctive fall planted bulbs adding height and texture to spring gardens. Hardy through most of the mid-west climate, allium tolerate drought and poor soil conditions. Available in a variety of heights, colors, and blooms, allium, with their lollipop look are a fun and whimsical flower to have in the garden.

No 4. Hyacinth - Charming bloom with a fragrance and aroma that will compare to finest French perfumes make hyacinths a Fantastic Spring Flowering Bulb. Hyacinth can be planted by themselves or as a feature in beds mixed with tulips and daffodils. Blooming early to mid-spring. Easily adapting to the mid-west environment, hyacinth has shown to be deer and rodent resistant. A single flower will appear from each bulb along with glossy green leaves. Hyacinth makes an excellent cut flower for color and fragrance. Hyacinth bulbs can be pre-chilled, or forced, for indoor color during winter months.

No. 3 Crocus - The first flowers to sprout from the earth each spring, crocus bring forth hope for the warmer days and bright blooms of spring. Crocus bulbs must be planted during the autumn months to bloom during the spring. A true perennial, they naturalize well, multiply very quickly, can be planted nearly anywhere, and require little care from one year to the next. They also tend to be highly resistant to deer. Crocus will be flowered and gone by the time daffodils, hyacinths, and tulips begin to color – their addition is an excellent way to extend the bloom season in a garden.

No. 2 Daffodils - Daffodils are the idiot proof bulb demanding the least effort for the highest reward. Undoubtedly one of the most recognized flowers, daffodils are extremely hardy and easily naturalize here in the mid-west. Daffodils must be planted in late fall to grow and bloom with their trumpet-shaped flowers, heralding the announcement of the spring. Most often spotted blooming in varieties of yellow, daffodils are available in a few other colors and bi-colored combinations. Inspiring when planted in clusters, daffodils make an excellent cut flower. One bulb can grow many stems and have one bloom on each. Available in various heights, colors and bloom times, daffodil will stay in color for many weeks.
Uncle's tip: Daffodils are one of the few garden flowers resistant to deer and rodents.

No. 1 Tulips - The most fantastic flowering bulb is the tulip. Prized for the flowers, tulips are deeply rooted in the Dutch culture and economy. Stunningly beautiful when clustered into large garden spaces and containers, tulips are the superstar of any flower bed or container. When complimented with crocus, daffodil or hyacinth tulips will make brilliant spring color combinations. The rainbow of colors available in tulips alone is unmatched. A mixture of early, mid and late season bloom times allows tulips to create color beds and containers for an extended period in spring.

See Related: Tulips Not All the Same

All Grass Pad locations have thousands of spring flowering bulbs available in early, mid or late season bloom times, heights and colors. Our warehouses are full of the very best quality bulbs at cheaper than internet prices with no sawdust. Our Dutch Uncle selects only the best for the mid-west. Bring your catalogs and compare.

See Related: Choosing & Planting Fall Bulbs

Uncle’s secret to crabgrass control isn’t really a secret. Uncle has been telling us since we were knee high to a grasshopper. After fifty years’ experience in sod production, Uncle knows a little about killing crabgrass and when Uncle spoke our customers listened. Uncle’s Idiot Proof Lawn Care begins in spring with an understanding there are two different categories of weeds to deal with in your lawn and each requires a different manner of control. Furthermore, understanding routine, timely feedings not only keep the lawn green but keep it thick and aggressive to fight off weed pressure and disease.

Annual grassy weeds, like crabgrass, foxtail and goose grass germinate each spring from seed. Low growing and prostrate to the ground forcing out weak and summer stressed turf grasses for prime real estate in your lawn. Annual grassy weeds die at first hard frost leaving behind bare spots and seeds for the next generation of weeds.

Preventing crabgrass and other annual grassy weeds start now with an application of PREVENT® before the soil warms and crabgrass seeds start to germinate. PREVENT®, when activated, creates a barrier on the soil to kill crabgrass seeds before they mature. In addition, PREVENT® contains a combination of slow and fast release turf food for spring & summer green up.

The real secret to crabgrass control is using two applications of PREVENT®. Uncle’s two application PREVENT® formula extends crabgrass control through heavy spring rains and dry, hot summers while one step formulas simply breakdown and fade away. They didn’t need to tell Uncle, but University testing has shown that two application pre-emergent formulas outperform one application formulas under Kansas and Missouri weather conditions.

Spread the first application of PREVENT® in Mid-March to Mid-April. The second application of PREVENT®, works as a booster shot, going down in late May to early June. For the best results always apply ½” of water within 48 hours after application.

The second category of weeds are broadleaf weeds. Uncle calls these “salad bar” weeds. Broadleaf weeds like dandelions, henbit, and plantain survive winter. As soils, warm in spring, broadleaf weeds grow and stretch to fill those same bare spots left from dead crabgrass. These two different weeds have a close relationship and help each other to flourish. Eliminating crabgrass will assist in eliminating broadleaf weeds.

The wide leaves of the broadleaf weeds make an easy target for Grass Pad’s granular WEED and FEED, a professional strength broadleaf herbicide plus low nitrogen slow release turf food. Spread WEED and FEED over a wet lawn or morning dew. Apply as needed from April till June on a sunny day when temperatures are above 65°. Do not apply if rain is expected within 48 hours. Do not apply water or mow within 48 hours after application.

Uncle has made lawn care idiot proof. He has thousands of satisfied customers that remind him every year when they come back for their lawn programs. A wise man once said, “Weeds will not make a lawn bad, bad lawns will make weeds.” If you want your lawn to stay thick, lush, and green with fewer weeds, follow Uncle’s Idiot Proof Lawn Care Program. Come on down to the Grass Pad. We’ve got a lot of friendly folks with a lot of great experience to show you how to be successful in maintaining a healthy lawn. You can’t screw it up; even your husband can do it.

The cool spring season with plenty of rain and Uncle's Idiot Proof Program have Blue Wave bluegrass and Heat Wave fescue lawns growing like crazy. It's easy to fall behind on mowing schedules when it's raining every day. When the grass is wet and the soil is saturated, should you mow or just let it go?

1. Be Patient

Excess water in the soil essentially pushes oxygen out of the soil. Without oxygen plant growth will stop until oxygen can be replaced. Be patient with an extremely soggy lawn and give the wettest areas a little time to drain and grass blades time to dry before mowing. Use your best judgement, you know the spots that hold water and those that drain well. A sunny south or west facing yard may need only one good afternoon to dry out and an east or north protected area may take a few days.
Wet soil is easily compacted. Mowing or even walking over saturated soil can cause compaction problems making it difficult for grass to grow.

2. Use a Sharp Blade

When it does dry out enough to mow, we cannot stress how important it is to use a sharp blade on your mower. Sharp mower blades make mowing so much easier. They give a better-looking finish cut and cause less stress on the grass plant.

Keep two and swap them out every 8 to 10 hours.

3. Don't Cut More Than 1/3

If you fall behind on mowing and the grass gets too tall, on your initial cut, raise the mower deck two notches, then wait a few days and cut it again at one notch lower. Wait a few more days, then cut at your original setting. Removing too much leaf can stress the plant and turn it yellow.

Once you're back to a regular schedule, set your height and leave it. Cutting at 3.5 - 4 inches will shade the soil keeping the roots cool in summer and help fight weed pressure.

4. Don't Leave Heavy Clippings

We all prefer to mulch mow. Mulch mowing is easier and beneficial, but at certain times bagging your grass clippings is a necessity. Cutting an overgrown lawn is one of those times. Heavy clippings left over the top will smother and yellow the grass plant. If you don't have a bagging mower, then do it the old fashion way and rake up the clippings.

5. Clean the Mower

Cleaning is a must if you want to keep Mama happy. Store a wet mower in the garage without cleaning the deck and in two days your garage will smell like a compost pile. Eventually, you will need to clean the deck, and it's a lot easier to clean before the grass mulch dries into a brick. Take the mower to an out of the way spot in the lawn, tilt it back and wash it out with the garden hose. Some of the new models have a hose attachment on the mower deck for clean out. Remember to remove the heavy clippings from the lawn to avoid smothering your grass.

Avoid washing it out on the driveway to keep grass clippings out of the storm drains.

6. PREVENT! Booster Shot

Excessive rainfall will break down the weed barrier created by PREVENT! Step #1, leading to crabgrass breakthrough by fall. A second application of PREVENT!, crabgrass pre-emergence plus fertilizer, extends crabgrass control through the summer and gives a booster shot of nitrogen that has been leached from the soil by heavy rainfall.

Hopefully there will be a few more days of seasonable and reasonable temperatures to work on spring lawn preparations. Here's a few reminders for the next break in the weather.

Turf

Time to get those last few leaves composted, mulched or removed from the lawn before the snow season arrives. Heavy piles of unmulched leaves block sunlight, air movement, and moisture to the soil. A thin layer of mulched leaves is good, but it must be thin enough to allow the sun, air, and water to reach the grass.
Mulched leaves won't supply enough nutrients needed for healthy turf. Apply Snowman, winter root builder on a day when the ground is not frozen. Snowman fertilizer is low nitrogen with added phosphorous and potash for root growth and disease resistance. Grass roots will continue to grow till the soil is frozen hard.
Salt from ice melter used on roads, driveways and sidewalks can cause serious damage to turf, trees, and small shrubs. Now is the time to apply a heavy application of Grass Pad's Lawn Cal containing lawn calcium. A granular application of calcium can help to bind the damaging sodium to the soil, calcium has a physiological role in inhibiting the uptake of sodium by plants.
Dormant seeding thin or bare areas in the lawn can start now.

Trees and Shrubs

Prune or cut off any dead growth from trees and shrubs to discourage insects who choose to hide there for the winter. Remove branches that overlap and rub against each other.
Avoid pruning spring flowering shrubs such as lilac, azalea, and certain hydrangea. These shrubs form their spring flower buds over late summer and fall. Any pruning of these shrubs, though not life threatening, will be removing spring flowers. Prune spring flowering shrubs after the bloom petals have fallen next spring.
Dormant oil can be applied on a mild day above 40 degrees. Use over burning bush, euonymous, pines or spruce to control scale and other insect eggs, such as spider mites.
Protect young trees from animals by wrapping stem or trunks with wire mesh. Smooth bark trees such as Red maples should be protected with tree wrap to prevent winter sun scalding.

Perennials

Cut back dry stems to soil level to prevent rotting in flower beds.
Procrastinators, if you have not planted your tulips, daffodils, crocus, and hyacinth get them into the ground soon. The ground is still workable now, but it won't be long before we have a frozen tundra.
Mulch flower beds once extreme cold weather arrives. Adding a fresh layer of mulch around plantings will give the landscape a neat and tidy appearance while keeping the temperatures around the plants consistent. Mulch will hold moisture in the soil, which is one of the most important parts of fighting winter stress.

Tools

Store your small engines for winter. Read tips from Popular Mechanics.
Oil garden hand tools to extend their life. A thin layer of vegetable oil will help to protect your shovels, spades, axes and hoes from moisture and winter rust.
Extend the life of your garden hoses by storing them in the shed, garage or basement.

Bird Feeders

Clean bird feeders each season.
Bird houses provide shelter from the weather and a haven from cats and other predators.
As temperatures fall, high fat, high-calorie suet is the perfect food to help birds get through long cold nights.
Keep a low level of fresh water in a clean bird bath. A bird bath heater will keep the water from freezing.

Gardening can be fun and educational for the whole family, plus you get tomatoes! Gardening can be that break you need from the hustle and bustle of the work week. Gardening can be that connection you were looking for, to get your child away from the X-Box. Dropping a seed in some dirt can do miracles for your health, family and your pocketbook.

In the beginning, you might feel overwhelmed by the plethora of gardening catalogs and websites, so it’s best to start by trial and error. Here are a few idiot-proof tips for starting seeds indoors that will boost the beginning gardener’s success rate and confidence.

Dig In!

The simple tools you will need to get started are seed packs, trays, starting pots, starting mix, watering can, labels, and a marking pen.

Begin by making your seed selections early, come to the Grass Pad and wander through the thousands of new and heirloom vegetable and flower seed packs. Feel free to bring mail order catalogs along for ideas and compare prices. Things to ponder, how much area will you be planting? And do you have full sun or shade areas?

Seed Selection

Don’t use old seed. The older seeds become, the less likely to sprout they are. Always look on the back of the pack for the “sell by date”, planting depth, spacing, sunlight, maturity dates and gardening tips for each variety. At Grass Pad, we receive fresh shipments of flower and garden seed packs at the beginning of each season and continue to refresh our seed racks regularly throughout the seasons.

Strategy

Planting times are not the same for all plants. Using information from your seed packs to determine the germination time, weeks to transplanting outdoors, and weeks to maturity.

Seedlings can be transferred outdoors when the temperatures warm enough to support them. Starting seeds too early, you may need to“shift up” – or transfer the baby plants to larger pots to allow for more root growth.

Pick your Pot

You can start seeds in open trays, in individual plastic packs, or in peat pots. Individual containers are best, because the less you disturb baby roots, the better. Some containers, such as peat pots, transplant right into the garden with the plant during transplanting. Plastic pots must be removed before transplanting.

Use Seed Starting Mix

Pro-Mix™ seed-starting mix is best for starting seeds indoors. Avoid potting soils with fertilizers – these are meant for mature plants and may do more harm than good for starting seeds. Pro-Mix™ seed starting mix contains Mycorise Pro™, beneficial organic fungi found naturally in soil, improving plant survivability after transplanting into garden soil. Also Pro-Mix™ contains a wetting agent to help the peat to hold moisture.

Don’t Over Water

Before you plant the seeds in Pro-Mix™ seed starting mix, moisten the mix with water to reach the right amount of moisture. Soil should be damp, but not too soggy. Seeds need to be in contact with moist soil to germinate, but too much water will kill your efforts. Covering the pots or tray after planting with clear plastic or dome will help to maintain consistent moisture level.The covering should not be sealed tight. Water only when necessary, when the soil is dry and seedlings wilting. Using peat pots in an open tray for watering from the bottom up will make idiot proof watering. Pour water into the tray bottom and wait for peat pots to soak up enough water so the top soil is moistened then drain the extra.

Avoid Leggy Plants

Warmth is needed to stimulate the seeds to sprout. Additional heat, using a heat mat, under your trays will keep soil mix consistently warm. Once the seedling puts pops up from the soil, light and warmth are critical. The ideal temperature will depend on what you are growing, but all plants need adequate light to grow. Baby seedlings will grow quickly to the light source, and if the light is not bright enough, the stems will stretch and grow in an unhealthy way.

Give your seeds 12 - 16 hours of light daily. Providing adequate light is the best way to avoid leggy plants. You could get extra light by setting plants near the south window. Another option would be to build an outdoor cold frame or to use grow lights. Cold frames may not be for the beginner. If you see the seedlings are becoming leggier than they should, you can shift them up by transplanting the seedlings deeper into a larger pot, to bury most of the stem. Or, start a second batch.

Be Kind

The process of acclimating the seedlings to the outdoors is critical. Transplant shock can cause issues, stunted or slow growth and even plant death can occur. Hardening off your seedlings when the outside temperatures are mild enough for the plant you are growing is essential to their survival. Seedlings started indoors have a sheltered environment, so to begin with, they need just a few hours of outdoor conditions, protected from the wind and direct sunlight. Bring them in at night.

Over the next few weeks, increase their exposure to direct sunlight, the wind, and rain. Gradually decrease water. Once your plants spent an entire day and night outdoors, they are ready to plant in prepared garden beds.

Uncle's Playbook for Lawn Coaches

Grass Seed Buyers Guide

Fantastic Five for Fall Foliage

Question of the Day: When Should I Overseed My Lawn?

Pro-grass-tinators Guide to Fall Overseeding

Fertilize in Fall for Healthy Trees

Ahhh....The Smell of Fresh Cut Grass in the Morning!

Sensational Six Trees for Fall Foliage

Fall Seeding, Fall Weeding

Spring Flowering Trees

Magnolias

Redbuds

Crabapples

Reduce Salt Damage to Build Healthy Soil

First Week in March: What You Should Be Doing In Your Lawn

Uncle's Early Spring tips:

Ornamental Grasses Idiot Proof Landscaping

Fantastic Five Ornamental Grasses

Renovation Revelations

Tulips Not All the Same

Five Fantastic Spring Flowering Bulbs

Uncle’s Secret for Crabgrass Control

Mow or Let it Go? Six Tips on Mowing During the Rainy Season

Winter Prep for Spring Lawns